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flying injection manual

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flying injection manualA basic LPG kit contains: 1 Fly Gas ECU without cartography 1 harness 1 LPG Genius reducer with temperature sensor integrated 1 Smart distributor 1 LPG Pressure sensor 1 specific ET98 solenoid valve 1 bag containing the standard clamps for Genius and Smart, a fuse holder, 4 nozzles, screws and small parts for general installation. A basic CNG kit contains: 1 Fly Gas ECU without cartography 1 harness 1 CNG Genius reducer with temperature sensor integrated 1 Smart distributor 1 CNG Pressure sensor 1 CNG charge solenoid valve 1 bag containing the standard clamps for Genius and Smart, a fuse holder, 4 nozzles, screws and small parts for general installation. A dedicated kit contains: 4 (or 5 or 6, according to the number of cylinders) 4x10 gas pipes and the relative swaged fittings The dedicated clamps for Genius and Smart units with the relative screws 1 10x17 gas pipe of correct length with relative swaged fittings 2 4x10 gas pipes of the correct length with relative swaged fittings 1 personalized changeover switch (where it is possible) or a standard one 1 MAP (if necessary) 1 4x10 gas tube of the correct length with pipe-fittings (if necessary) - 2 120 elbows for Smart distributor (if necessary) - the necessary modulars any other component necessary for each specific vehicle.2 The use of the dedicated kit, although not compulsory (some of these components may be purchased separately) is highly recommended, as the components are pre-manufactured to make installation easier and to cut down installation time. The reduction of the installation time, along with the setting procedure, simple and fast because of the absence of adjustment, will give you a noticeable saving in labour costs plus reducing the time a client vehicle will be in your workshop. To assist you with these savings BRC can offer you a toolbox with all the specific tools for the correct installation procedure of Flying Injection.

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Finally, to guarantee a good quality installation it is essential to equip only those cars for which a developed cartography is available, by following attentively the instructions contained in the installation guide specific for each car. This guidebook will be handed to you by the BRC representative when you buy the kit. In any case, before deciding to carry out any new installation, refer to BRC After Sale Service, quoting them the car make, the model, the displacement, the engine number and the petrol injection ECU. To the installer We compliment you on your choice, however, we would like to call your attention on a few aspects designed into the new vapour phase LPG and CNG injection system. FLYING INJECTION is a completely new and innovative product, whose technical characteristics and performances are highly advanced. In order to guarantee the best results and to assure complete satisfaction to the end user (your customer), we recommend that you read carefully the Installation Guide and the assembly instructions specific to each vehicle. With the purchase of your first new Flying Injection system, your methods of fitting and setting are now going to change. In a traditional induction system the characterising element was the mixer, now, for the Flying Injection system, it is the cartography inside Fly Gas ECU. This difference as against the traditional system requires a new installation philosophy: components cannot be purchased separately and fitted according to professional skills and experience, the system is designed in such a way that you are able to purchase two kits, a common kit containing the basic components for installation (basic kit) available both in the LPG version than in the CNG one, and another kit specific to each We hope youll enjoy fitting the new Flying Injection System. FLYING INJECTION 1. WHY THE INJECTION IS PREFERABLE Gasoline vapor can Idling control valve Oil vapors No mixer It is only natural that the evolution of gas equipment should now be represented by gas injection. In the Flying Injection system, the gaseous fuel does not require a mixer, but the correct requirement is constantly determined by calculations carried out by a special ECU. The desired flow is immediately delivered by a device which reacts instantaneously to the ECU commands. This device is constantly changing to allow the correct metering as required by varying vehicle conditions. This installation does not need any mixer and the advantages are clear: no penalisation of the petrol performances increased gas performances due to an efficient filling of the cylinders no obstacles in the air induction systems no need for a different mixer for each vehicle The Flying Injection system has another important advantage: it does not involve any alteration to the original working of the car (pic.1): the aspiration ducts are unchanged (the air inlet is not modified, the tubes of the oil vapours, of the petrol vapours, of the air and of the idle are not moved) making the installation of the system more professional and neat Resounder Air flow meter of any type Dirty..air filter Frontal air intake Pic. 1 - The whole induction system is unchanged any blade air flow meters go on working regularly the working of variable geometry manifolds is not altered possible resounders remain unchanged at their place. Flying Injection offers relevant advantages for the petrol injection system (pic.2): no emulation is necessary, with the obvious exception of the number one injector less error codes in the petrol ECU all functions of the petrol ECU remain perfectly efficient when running on gas there is no need for any adjustment. Finally, one of the main reasons to prefer Flying Injection: the risks of damage due to backfires are eliminated. The installation must be carried out according to the following procedures and in accordance with the specific instructions that BRC provides for the various car models. The Flying Injection system (pic. 4 and 5) begins from the Genius vaporiser which, in the LPG version has one stage only and in the CNG version has two stages, with pressure outlet retroactioned on the pressure value on the aspiration manifold and temperature sensor. Then a pipe follows, which delivers the gas to Smart, the device which meters and sends out the gas flow to the different cylinders. Absolute and differential pressure sensors are connected to Smart. Finally, there is the Fly Gas electronic control unit, highly powerful and versatile, strong, tight, entirely manufactured with automotive components, tested according to the current norms concerning the electromagnetic compatibility. The ECU gathers and processes all the information and controls Smart (as well as the solenoid valve and other possible accessories) to generate the desired gas flow. The gas is delivered directly to the aspiration manifold downstream the throttle body through special pipes. The changeover switch with level indicator is the same as used in BRC traditional systems. The Flying Injection system interacts with the exterior by a personal computer, which allows both the system set up and the checking of the correct working. None of the Pic. 4 - The components of the Flying Injection system Pic. 5 - Components and parameters of the Flying Injection system BRC diagnosis systems previously used may be connected to Flying Injection. Flying Injection is a passive system or that it works as an interpreter between the petrol system and the control of the gaseous fuel). Discover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime. Report this Document Download Now Save Save Flying Injection Manual For Later 100 (1) 100 found this document useful (1 vote) 3K views 40 pages Flying Injection Manual Uploaded by Slainsha Description: Full description Save Save Flying Injection Manual For Later 100 100 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 0 0 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download Now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 40 Search inside document Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language. When calibrated, maintained and used properly these systems will provide you with great consistency and many years of trouble free performance. We at KillerRONS.COM have put together a list of things all new users should know based upon the most common inquiries we receive. We have done this in an effort to make your transition into the mechanical fuel injection world a little easier. If after reading this you have any questions, please feel free to let us know, we are glad to help. New users simply do not understand the importance of the fuel cell in the function of the system. The fuel cell is much more than a place to store fuel before it is delivered to the engine. With the design of these systems the pump pulls fuel very quickly out of the cell and delivers it to the barrel valve. At the barrel valve a portion of the fuel (amount depending upon throttle position) is immediately forced to the engine under pressure. The unneeded fuel is returned very quickly back into the fuel cell. This cycle is repeated constantly at a high rate of speed so there is a lot of turbulence and pressure changes in the cell. Due to this it is imperative that the cell construction and plumbing be scrutinized as much as a proper tune-up would be. The first thing that needs to be done is to remove all media from the cell. The mechanical pumps used in these systems have a very strong suction ability and when the fuel level gets too low there is a chance that the media will be sucked into the inlet of the feed hose causing a hard to find restriction. In drag racing applications the fuel cell or surge tank needs to be mounted in front of the engine with the feed hose for the fuel pump facing the rear of the car. This is done so that when the vehicle launches the fuel in the cell rushes towards the outlet and ultimately the fuel pump. A simple way to think about this is to never ask the fuel to outrun the car as it is accelerating. For most mechanical fuel injection units a minimum of three gallon capacity is recommended. We at KillerRONS.COM prefer a four gallon capacity in most applications because we believe that at no time should the fuel level drop to much less than half-empty. We are aware that many users may have fuel cells that are smaller than three gallon with no issues, this is a general rule of thumb. The fuel cell must be vented and that vent working properly. Although many use them we discourage roll-over valves, filters and hoses with loops or coils in them. The best vent is a simple hose coming out of the top of the cell and directed down towards the bottom of the vehicle. If a rollover valve is being used then a -8AN size should be used and monitored frequently. Otherwise, a -6AN OPEN fitting will suffice in most cases. Other fuel injection technicians may disagree with this but KillerRONS.COM prefers all bypassed, low pressure fuel (main return, hi-speed return, idle bypass, etc.) have a dedicated return directly back into the top of the fuel cell. Shared return hoses can create turbulence and resistance on one or both of the bypasses and not allow them to return fuel as efficiently as possible. Also all returns should dump fuel back into the top of the fuel cell as far away from the outlet as possible. Under no circumstances should a non-aeration tube be used within the fuel cell or return hoses be plumbed into the side of a fuel cell below the fuel level. There are many high quality filters on the market but not all have the correct micron screen or element area to work correctly with mechanical injection. As discussed above your fuel system moves a large amount of fuel in a short amount of time and any restriction from a filter used beyond its intended capacity can cause problems. If you are unsure what filter you have then you should buy one that is meant to be used with mechanical injection. In most cases we prefer that you utilize one filter in the suction hose between the fuel cell and fuel pump. There are instances (with the use of a vane style pump) that a filter should also be used in the pressure hose between the pump and barrel valve. Under no circumstances should you install a filter in a bypass hose. This can cause a restriction in the returned fuel as mentioned above. Check your filter before you go to the track the first time after you have had the engine running at home. When new systems are built there can be many small pieces of loose debris that are pushed through the system the first time it is started and pressure is built up. It is highly recommended to check your nozzle jets for obstructions after the first couple start-ups and also after the first pass. Often times the high pressure built up during initial use can dislodge a small piece of rubber and clog a nozzle jet. If your system runs badly at the initial start-up or first outing this is the first thing a KillerRONS.COM technician is going to ask you to check. This is done by removing the inlet hose and spraying a liberal amount of WD-40 into the barrel valve. Once this is done work the shutoff and throttle levers open and closed several times and then spray more lubricant into the valve and give it as much time as possible to penetrate the o-ring material. This will ensure that your sealing o-rings are lubricated and they seal properly when fuel pressure is introduced into the valve. If you have a barrel valve that is already leaking you can still do the above procedure and let it sit for a few hours or overnight if possible. Often times there is nothing wrong with o-rings short of needing this lubrication. If this does not fix the problem you will need to call the manufacturer at 800-513-3835 and request an o-ring kit for your barrel valve. They will need to know what make of barrel valve you have so that you receive the proper kit. They are most easily differentiated by the color of valve (black, purple and gray).This can cause many problems ranging from excessive fuel usage, contaminated oil, harder than normal starting, a hesitation in throttle response and even poor full throttle performance. We get many calls from persons wanting to know what leakage to set their barrel valve to. That can be a potentially difficult question to answer because of so many different leak down testers being available. With this in mind the KillerRONS technicians are reluctant to give a recommendation unless you have a Ron's Fuel Injection leak down tester. That said, every brand leak down tester is still a great tool for measuring the leak down AFTER the system is running correctly. A good starting point for the barrel valve can be achieved visually and with a feeler’s gauge. For a Flying Toilet set the blade gap at.010-.012” and for a single Terminator set the blade gaps to.008-.010”. Once this is done look at the position of the screwdriver slot that is cut into the end of the barrel valve spool. If it is to the left the barrel valve spool is installed 180 degrees out. If the barrel valve is an older model (black or purple) then screwdriver slot should be more noticeably left of vertical. If you imagine the slot to be the hour hand of a clock the slot should be approximately 11:00-11:30 and, once again, the stamped number to the right of the slot. It bears mentioning again, with the older model barrel valves (black or purple) the slot is noticeably left of 12:00 compared to the newer style barrel valves. From this point the engine should start, idle and RPM cleanly without hesitation. If the idle is a little low when first running the engine open your blade gap slightly. Conversely, if the idle is a little too fast close your blade gap slightly. If more than a small blade gap adjustment is needed you may need to alter the position of your spool index mark to make the barrel valve (idle mixture) richer or leaner. Lengthening the barrel valve turnbuckle (rotating the spool clockwise) will lean the mixture; raising the RPM. Shortening the barrel valve turnbuckle (rotating the spool counter-clockwise) will richen the mixture; lowering RPM. If you need to move the blade gap more than a couple thousandths or the idle mixture more than a few flats please contact a KillerRONS.COM technician for further guidance. When making these adjustments shoot for around 1700-1800 RPM in park or neutral with a warm engine (150 degrees water temperature minimum). Remember it will drop 300-500 RPM when put into gear with a torque converter equipped vehicle. Mechanically injected cars don’t like to idle much below 1,000-1,100 RPM in gear. Most users utilize 1,300-1,400 RPM for best results. ENGINE OIL CONTAMINATION It is absolutely unacceptable to have or expect to have contaminated oil in your engine. If you are experiencing this it needs to be addressed immediately. There are two criteria to be met that will ensure your oil is as pure as possible at all times. The first being the idle mixture set properly as discussed above (not too rich). The second being proper use of the shutoff cable. If your system did not come with a shutoff cable please call a KillerRONS.COM technician and order one. It is extremely important in the proper use of your system every time you start the engine. Of course the fuel should be fully ON when starting the engine but once the engine is running the cable needs to be manipulated. The simplest way to state this is if the engine is running and you are not preparing for wide open throttle the cable should be pulled until you hear the engine RPM's tweaking up close to or above 2,000 RPM. Many experienced users are adept at getting up to 2,200-2,500 RPM without stalling the engine. This ensures that the engine is on the lean side and only getting the fuel it needs to run. This should be done while you are warming the engine for the day as well as driving to and from the competition course. In a drag racing application, a good policy after each pass is to see how much temperature you can gain before getting back to your pit area. This will minimize the idle time building heat in preparation for the next pass. It will also save fuel and your oil will look great. If you can reach 170-180 degrees by the time you are back at your trailer most, if not all, of the moisture that is present will be eliminated from the oil. It is also good practice at the end of each race day to remove your header evacuation assemblies from the valve covers or, with the use of a vacuum pump, remove the suction hose from the valve cover. This will allow the trapped moisture to escape from the engine as it slowly cools down. If you forget to do this it is a good idea during the week to remove your valve covers and wipe the “sludge” out of them with paper towels. If you follow the shutoff cable recommendations your oil will last as long as it would in a gasoline burning engine. If this is the case, you may need individualized help to sort it out. If you purchased the system directly from KillerRONS.COM contact either James Monroe or Scott Offer mann as they will already have your combination and fuel system information on file. You will receive a response within hours in most cases. It will never be more than 24 hours before a response. If it is longer than that please call and make sure that we received it. It provides the outside or ambient air temperature for calculating true airspeed and is useful in detecting potential icing conditions. Fuel Injection Systems In a fuel injection system, the fuel is injected directly into the cylinders, or just ahead of the intake valve. The air intake for the fuel injection system is similar to that used in a carburetor system, with an alternate air source located within the engine cowling. This source is used if the external air source is obstructed. The alternate air source is usually operated automatically, with a backup manual system that can be used if the automatic feature malfunctions. After starting, the engine-driven fuel pump provides fuel under pressure from the fuel tank to the fuel-air control unit. This control unit, which essentially replaces the carburetor, meters fuel based on the mixture control setting and sends it to the fuel manifold valve at a rate controlled by the throttle. After reaching the fuel manifold valve, the fuel is distributed to the individual fuel discharge nozzles. The discharge nozzles, which are located in each cylinder head, inject the fuel-air mixture directly into each cylinder intake port. A fuel injection system is considered to be less susceptible to icing than a carburetor system, but impact icing on the air intake is a possibility in either system. Impact icing occurs when ice forms on the exterior of the aircraft and blocks openings, such as the air intake for the injection system. Not a member?Like landing, engine start is one part science, one part art, one part folklore, and two parts luck. If you don't believe it, you haven't yet tried to start a hot fuel-injected engine. When was the last time you worried that your car's engine wouldn't start. Probably never, if it's a reasonably contemporary model. No matter the weather or when you last drove it, it's gonna start. At the very most you might need to depress the gas pedal once to activate the automatic choke. Based on the field reports, the chip does a few quick calculations to determine what incentives the engine will extort extra gas, an advance on the ignition timing, that sort of thing before reporting to work, which it does almost without fail. If you're lucky it's a mild spring day, the airplane hasn't been flown in the last couple of hours, and it has a new battery. You review the before-start checklist, prime if necessary based on your feeling of things, set the power controls as directed in the normal procedures section of the flight manual, then silently ask forgiveness for your sins before engaging the starter. These are the times when pilots resort to folklore and the mystical incantations and complicated machinations of the engine controls that look like they were devised in ancient times by reedy, mustachioed men who spoke in whispers and would not look anyone in the eye, then passed down by generations of pilots. The only piston-powered airplane I've flown that was a no-brainer to start every time was a Mooney powered by a Porsche engine modified for aviation use. It was always a cinch to fire up because it had basically the same electronically controlled ignition and fuel injection system as a modern car. It had two magnetos and a carburetor. Early on an experienced pilot advised me to avoid using the primer and instead pump the throttle three times before engaging the starter. This was a departure from what was recommended in the flight manual, but it seemed to work reasonably well. Pumping the primer injects raw fuel into the intake port of one cylinder, which can load up that cylinder and foul the plugs. Pumping the throttle, on the other hand, forces the accelerator pump in the carburetor to squirt raw fuel through the throat of the carburetor and into the induction system plenum. When you turn the key to engage the starter, the rich fuel-air mix that's sucked into all the cylinders coaxes the engine to life. But as I learned, it's also an effective crutch to lean on when starting the engine. The trick is to know when and when not to pump the throttle knowledge gained only over time and through experience, and useful only for that specific airplane. The difference was in the wing. The high-wing Cessna relied on infallible gravity to deliver fuel to the engine. In the low-wing Cherokee, I had to switch on an electric fuel pump to get fuel coursing through the lines to start the engine. Fuel injection is a more efficient way to deliver fuel to the cylinders than a carburetor, and it's not subject to carburetor icing, but in certain situations it can be more difficult to start a fuel-injected engine. Typically, the small-diameter metal lines that transport fuel from the flow divider to each cylinder sit above the engine. Within a few minutes after the engine has been shut down, the tremendous heat rising from the cylinders is mostly trapped inside the cowl, superheating the fuel lines to the point where fuel inside the lines boils and vaporizes. This can create a blockage in the lines that persists until the engine and the fuel lines cool and the vapor condenses. The problem comes when you try to restart the engine before it's had a chance to cool sufficiently which may be a considerable length of time in high ambient temperatures. When the engine fires or if it fires advance the mixture until it's running smoothly. Many a pilot has experimented with throttle, mixture, and fuel pump to blast through a vapor lock and force good fuel to the cylinders. That 's because the airplane was manufactured before the industry agreed in the mid-1970s on a standard for writing a pilot's operating handbook. The new standard calls for normal, cold, hot, flooded, and external power source starting procedures. The manual for the airplane you fly may or may not contain all these procedures, depending on the age of the airplane. It starts every time within a few blades, without the worrisome puddling of excess fuel inside the cowling that I used to see when I tried other methods involving full-rich mixture and full throttle. Looking back, I think I learned that procedure from a mysterious guy with a bushy mustache. The thread is shredding near the needle eye, Why. What to do if the bobbin thread breaks. What do I do if the fabric will not feed. Why is my stitching wrinkled or fabric puckering. Why do the stitches fail to “grab” at seam beginning. Why can’t I thread the sewing machine. Why is the needle threader not turning. Why does the needle unthread when I start to sew. The Sewing machine is not sewing reverse. Why are the threads of my fabric snagging as I sew. Why is the fabric not feeding and moving straight. It should be thoroughly read before your first stitch. All the settings and maintenance information will be given in them. If you have lost it, you may contact the manufacturer through their online sites; some are available for download from their websites Most of the time it may be small details that cause the sewing machine hitches. There are somet hings you should check first as soon as you one such hitch. Check the placement of NEEDLE. Most of the time the sewing machine is giving you skipped stitches, thread breaks, not taking the bobbin thread etc.Put the needle so that the flat side is to the back or as per your sewing machine manual. Putting it backwards is what mine says. Next to look for is whether the machine is threaded properly. One little missed step and your sewing sequence is off. Check out this post that details how to thread a sewing machine. Check out the post on the 3 steps to do sewing machine maintenance. So even after a home maintenance your machine is not behaving or making unnatural sounds, maybe it is time for a visit to the nearest service center of your particular brand. It is recommended that you take it every 2 years for this deep cleaning. Sometimes problems arise due to the kind of fabric you are sewing and you mistake it for a sewing machine problem. Checkout the posts on how to sew with sheer fabrics, very thick fabrics, very delicate fabrics, knit fabrics, satin fabric, poplin and cotton. Why is there excessive noise while sewing.